“What’s your opinion on lard?” That’s how I met George Gundrey, owner of Atrisco Cafe, and his esteemed mother. George comes from a long line of good food establishments. Since his grandmother’s first restaurant in Albuquerque, his folks, his aunts and uncles are responsible for New Mexican food icons like Tia Sophias and Tomasita’s. George’s Atrisco keeps the tradition going. After nearly 4 years in Santa Fe, it was in Atrisco Cafe‘s kitchen on an early saturday morning that I first witnessed just how the “green” is made in Hatch chili season. And for the record: lard rocks.