Duke City: A Layover Primer

When I have clients coming into Albuquerque for a project, I like to share a little local flavor during the brief time they usually have before/after a project for a little speed-style exploring. I have a list of things to eat and do, which goes a little something like this: (disclaimer – I’m no tourist guide author – this is pure 100% subjective opinion…)

At it’s best, Albuquerque, aka “Duke City” or “the ‘burque” is a vibrant southwestern city at the crossroads of two major interstates (I25 and I40). It’s a college town that grows with contemporary trends while staying firmly rooted in its cultural history, which is also at a major crossroads – the legacies of Spanish colonial conquest and Native American resistance and resilience.

There are miles of bike paths, parks and urban farming initiatives spanning the Rio Grande bosque/ wildlife habitat that bisects the city, and classic architectural artifacts of 1950’s Americana-Route 66-Neon throughout. Plus some great museums dedicated to New Mexico’s other major claims to fame: dinosaur bones, petroglyphs, atomic bombs and aliens.

At it’s worst, Albuquerque is a flat, sprawling, low-rent LA with deep pockets of economic depression and abandoned commercial real estate. It’s no accident Breaking Bad was set here.

Big Important Note: New Mexican food is **not** mexican food. We’ve got our own thing here – from piñon to pinto beans, tamales to posole (hominy stew with pork and chile), to frito pies and sopapilla (a puffy square of fried dough – kind of like a donut pillow without the sugar).

And then there’s the Official State Question, “red or green?” referring to the ubiquitous chile sauce with which we smother everything from eggs to burritos to burgers to apple pies. If you’re feeling sassy, you can say “Christmas”, which means both red and green (at any time of year).

I go for green (roasted, juicy hatch green chile) but some swear by red (more piquant, made from the powder of a dried red chile). Typically neither is vegetarian – I think both have stock and maybe lard.

For those staying in the downtown area, you’re probably somewhere near Central Ave, one of the main arteries running through town. Ranging along Central from West to East:

Old Town – if possible, go a few miles west to the old town district for an authentic taste of colonial New Mexican heritage – old Spanish plaza, real New Mexican food, and the major tourism exports: Native American ceramics, weaving and jewelry, with a smattering of heavy catholic iconography and Breaking Bad T-shirt paraphenalia.

Vinaigrette – redefining the concept of “salad” with incredibly fresh and surprisingly varied flavors and textures, succulent protein add-ons, impeccable soups, good wines. The perfect antidote to “airport food”.

Dog House Drive-In – a true dive, with great greasy dogs, historic neon, and quite often some spectacular low rider chromed cruisers in the parking lot.

Mas – For years, Chef James Campbell Caruso’s Spanish tapas restaurant “La Boca” has been my favorite restaurant in Santa Fe – which is no shabby thing given that I shoot farms, farmers, chefs and plates for a living and have been to more restaurants than most residents or tourists ever knew existed. This past fall, Caruso opened “Mas” in the Hotel Andaluz. I haven’t been yet, and I’m usually a bit skeptical about “hotel restaurants” but I’m pretty sure everything Caruso touches turns to culinary gold, so I can’t imagine it’s not great.

There is good coffee in walking distance of downtown Central and the train station – Cafe Giuseppe – for the hipster “fixie” cyclist set who call bike parts “components” and like them Italian, like their coffee.

Artichoke Cafe – one of the best restaurants in town. Beautiful, considerate food, innovative cocktails. If you’re feeling more casual, the related Farina pizzaria is just next door.

The Grove Cafe – the bright fresh locally sourced ingredients.. Counter-service cafe with consistently scrumptiously-good breakfast and lunch fare. ‘Blue Sky’ Bonus Points: some scenes from Breaking Bad were filmed there.

Holy Cow – my money says it’s the best burger in town – but there are those who’d differ. Real-deal chocolate malts, local brew on tap, all served up in a beautifully renovated and reimagined landmark 50’s fast food joint.

To the east of I25 along Central, in the “Nob Hill” district just past the university (think Urban Outfitters, cafes, upscale thrift stores and tattoo joints) there’s some other gems – including Zinc, Zacatecas Tacos y Tequila, and a personal favorite, the Two Fools Tavern, featuring dark wood interiors, the biggest selection of whiskies in the southwest, traditional Irish foodstuffs and euro “football” on the telly.

Of course, there are countless others. But that should get you started…